Seven headed Vasuki at south gate of Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom locates in Angkor complex, to the south west corner of the first capital of Yasodharapura (late 9th century) which was the third city and the largest city of Angkor period, as its name means ‘Great City’. Angkor Thom was built in the late 12th century and early 13th century by the great Khmer King Jayavarman VII. Angkor Thom is surrounded by moat of 100 meters wide and 2 meters deep and walls made by laterite of about 3km square and 7 meters high with 5 entrances.
In the central of Angkor Thom built the state temple of King Jayavarman VII – Bayon Temple. The four entrances of Angkor Thom were built in the central of the four walls in a straight line with the four entrances of Bayon Temple. The South entrance is called ‘Tonle Om Gate’, the gate in which opening for tourists nowadays. The North entrance is called ‘Dei Chhnang Gate and the West entrance named ‘Ta Kav Gate’. Two more gates are stayed on the East wall, the one on the straight line with the East entrance of Bayon Temple is called ‘Ghost Gate’. It was named so, because this gate is used for the Royal Funeral Ceremony passing through. It was believed that passing the East entrance, the passed away person will be born next life in heaven. ‘The Victory Gate’ is also on the East wall at about 500 meters North of the ‘Ghost Gate’. This entrance is align straightly with the main entrance of the Royal Palace. It was chosen to be the location for ‘Victory Gate’ and also the entrance of the Royal Palace, because it was originally a walking way built since the 10th century and it’s also the way to Mebon Temple. The Victory gate was used for Khmer commanders and army going across for a battle and also for welcoming them back after they have gained the victory over the enemy.
Tonle Om Gate - South Gate of Angkor Thom. The most attractive gate welcoming visitors to Angkor Thom. It's also the most complete of original construction.
Tonle Om Gate - South Gate of Angkor Thom. 54 Asuras lining at the right side.
Dei Chhnang Gate - Angkor Thom North Gate. This is another gate which the construction of asuras holding serpent Vasuki still in good condition.
Dei Chhnang Gate - Angkor Thom North Gate, taken from inside out.
The last Asura in the row at north gate of Angkor Thom
Angkor Thom is special by the architecture of the entrances construction. Each entrance was built with a gopura of 23 meters high, have a triple tower carved the face tower with four faces towards the cardinal directions, which is the same to the face tower of Bayon Temple. There are also different conclusions of what is the face tower represented for. One conclusion has said that, the face tower is represented the four Gods of the four main directions: Indra in the East, Yama in the South, Varuna in the West, and Kubera in the North. Other said that face tower of the entrance also the same to the face towers of Bayon Temple which represented faces of Avalokiteshvara or King Jayavarman VII’s face. On either sides of the gopura base, sculpted a three-headed elephant Airavana, the mount of Indra.
Three headed elephant holding lotus, north gate of Angkor Thom
Before arriving the entrances of Angkor Thom, we all must crossing the moat and a broad bridge was built with statues at both side holding the king of serpent – a seven-headed naga. Facing to the gopura entrance, at the right side is a row of 54 Asuras and at the left is a row of 54 Devas. The architecture is adapted from a scene of Hindu epic, Churning the Ocean of Milk. All five entrances are similar, however, only the South Entrance has been the most extensively restored and it’s the most common approach for all visitors. This is the first impression to visitors right at their arrival at Angkor Thom. Everyone would have a photo at this magnificent entrance gopura.
Within the compound walls of Angkor Thom contains many temple:
1. Bayon Temple: the state temple of King Jayavarman VII located absolutely central of Angkor Thom.
2. Baphuon Temple: located to the North West of Bayon Temple, it’s the state temple of the Yasodharapura of King Udayadityavarman II.
3. Phimeanakas Temple: a 11th century temple and state temple of Suryavarman I.
4. Royal Palace
7. Suor Prat Temple Group or Prasat Neang Dob Pi
8. Northern Kleang and Southern Kleang: two similar buildings on the east side of Angkor Thom’s Royal Square.
Beside these, there are pagodas and big ponds also constructed such as Wat Tep Pranam, Preah Vihear Prampi Lveng, Don Mea Lake.
Victory Gate - East Gate of Angkor Thom. There is only the gopura of face tower that remain, the lines of Asuras and Devas are all removed.
Ghost Gate - Another gate of Angkor Thom faces east. This gate is traveled by the locals only, visitors rarely arrive this gate.
Ta Kav Gate - West Gate of Angkor Thom. Taken from inside out. This gate is also rarely visited. Most of the constructions are damaged, however, the face towers are in good form.
At each corner of the four walls of Angkor Thom, there is a temple built named ‘Prasat Chrung’, ‘chrung’ is Khmer word means ‘corner’. The temples were made of sandstone which the sanctuary is surmounted by a tower in the Bayon style, dedicated to the Bodhisattva Lokesvara. The temples are cross-shaped, each was surrounded by a wall with a single opening on the east side.
Prasat Chrung - South east corner temple of Angkor Thom. There are also Apsaras or Devas carved on the walls.
Angkor Thom and its state temple – Bayon, were built to dedicate to Mahayana Buddhism, since the national religion in the reign of King Jayavarman VII was Buddhism instead of Hinduism. However, the great king hadn’t completely turn away from Hinduism, because it was still the religion which worship by his citizens. By this meaning, Angkor Thom and Bayon Temple are said to be built for dedicating to Buddhism, but we still can see a hidden myth behind it as Angkor Thom was built as the scene of The Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Consideration in relation to the Bayon, Angkor Thom is the ocean of milk, Bayon is the Mandra mountain serves as churning tool which is coiled by the king of serpent, Vasuki. The Asuras and Devas are holding the body of Vasuki rotating the mountain to form the churning process, this is demonstrated on each causeway of the five entrances of Angkor Thom. From the depth of the ocean comes the ‘Elixir of Immortality’. By this way, the city of Yasodharapura was reborn, splendid and lasting as a immortal city.
View of Angkor Thom South Gate with the moat and the city wall.
